Climbing Kilimanjaro

Highlights of Mount Kilimanjaro

• The region
• The surrounds

• • Geology

    A relative infant in geological terms, Kilimanjaro comprises three distinct volcanic cones whose formation is linked to the same tectonic process responsible for the creation of the more westerly Great Rift Valley …

    The oldest cone Shira formed some 2.5 million years ago, but the taller peaks of Mawenzi and Kibo both came into being less than one million years ago. Mawenzi, like Shira, is now listed as extinct. By contrast, Kibo - which incorporates the 5,895m Uhuru Peak - is regarded to be dormant, though it probably hasn’t experienced serious volcanic activity in the last 100,000 years, despite the presence of several fumaroles in the crater. In addition, at least 250 parasitic cones can be found on the mountain’s flanks, the most famous being the one that hosts the gorgeous Chala Crater Lake on the eastern footslopes.
  • Fauna

    Kilimanjaro is not primarily a wildlife destination, but the national park supports four different vegetation zones, each with its own distinct flora and fauna that are determined by the altitude …

    The most frequently seen forest mammals are monkeys. Troops of black-and-white colobus leap acrobatically between the trees, long white tails in tow, while a habituated troop of the lovely blue monkey frequents some of the overnight huts. Buffalo and elephant are present but seldom seen, though you might well notice their fresh spoor on the forest trails. Predators such as leopard and serval are even more elusive, but you might catch a glimpse of the beautifully marked bushbuck or one of three recorded species of duiker. The largest of these, the elusive Abbott’s duiker, is an Endangered species now regarded to be endemic to a quintet of montane forests in eastern Tanzania due to environmental loss and poaching elsewhere in its natural range. After dark, the night air is frequently shattered by the banshee wail of the otherwise unobtrusive tree hyrax.
    The forest birdlife is sensational. You’re almost certain to see silvery-cheeked hornbill, a massive and rather comical bird that reveals its presence with a raucous nasal call and heavy wingbeats. There’s also the stellar Hartlaub’s turaco, a green and purple bird with deep red underwings, the vociferous but elusive emerald cuckoo, and a host of colourful robin-chats, drab but cheerful greenbuls, and nectar-loving sunbirds.
    Other wildlife includes plentiful butterflies (including at least four endemic species), the hulking foot-long Jackson’s three-horned chameleon and slightly smaller Kilimanjaro two-horned chameleon, and numerous small but colourful tree frogs.
  • Flora

    Kilimanjaro’s ecosystems are as strikingly beautiful as they are diverse. Divided into particular zones, each informed by altitude and a plethora of unique and varied landscapes, as changeable as the weather …

    Montane forest zone: The most biodiverse vegetation zone is the lush evergreen rainforest that dominates from altitudes of 1,800m up to 3,000m. This is the wettest part of the mountain, with the southern slopes receiving up to 2,000mm of rain annually, and it looks and feels like the archetypal tropical jungle - hot, humid, coloured in infinite shades of green, and alive with bird song. More than 1,200 vascular plant species have been recorded in these forests, many of them endemic to this one mountain. Common forest trees include the towering East African camphorwood Ocotea usambarensis, Yellowwood Podocarpus latifolius and various wild figs Ficus spp as well as the wild olive Olea africana, macaranga Macaranga kilimandscharica and at higher altitudes fragrant Hagenia Hagenia abyssinica draped atmospherically in old-man’s beard lichens, and African pencil-cedar Juniperus procera. Seasonal flowers include the stunning tuba-shaped red-and-yellow Impatiens kilimanjari and various violets and epiphytic orchids. Another feature of the higher forest zone are large stands of towering bamboo forest.
    Semi-alpine moorland zone: The dominant vegetation zone between the 3,000m and 4,000m contours is a heath-like cover studded with abundant wild flowers, including the exquisite yellow-flowered alpine sugarbush Protea kilimandscharica and alpine red-hot poker Kniphofia thomsonii. Though less biodiverse than the forest zone, the pastel-shaded moorland has an ethereal beauty all its own, particularly in the morning when it often swathed in mist. This zone notable for the presence of two most distinctive plants: the giant lobelia Lobelia deckenii, which grows to 3m high and is capped by a massive whorled rosette, and the giant groundsel Dendrosenecio kilimanjari, which grows up to 5m high and is capped by a spike of yellow flowers. Aside from small rodents such as the ubiquitous four-striped grass mouse, mammal densities are low on the moorland zone. But look out for the endearing rock hyrax, and for the pairs of klipspringer that sometimes stand sentinel on rocky outcrops. Birdlife is limited to a few species adapted to high altitude environments. The star among these is undoubtedly the scarlet-tufted malachite sunbird, a beautiful iridescent green bird often seen feeding on proteas and red-hot pokers, but it is run a close second by spectacular but scarce lammergeyer (bearded vulture). Other birds of the moorland zone include Augur buzzard, Mountain buzzard, Alpine swift, Alpine chat and Streaky seedeater.
    Alpine zone: Classified as a semi-desert on account if its low rainfall, the alpine zone - roughly between 4,000m and 5,000m - also experience dramatic daily temperature contrasts. Plant life is restricted to around 55 hardy species of grass, lichen and moss. The common eland - Africa’s largest antelope - occasionally strays up into this zone, and elephants have been recorded upon occasion, but essentially there is no wildlife up this high.
    Arctic zone: Above the 5,000m contour, rainfall is practically non-existent, and permanent life forms are restricted to a few masochistic lichens. As for large wildlife, a pack of African wild dog was observed here in 1962, and a frozen leopard was discovered in 1926, and - well, that’s about it.
• • Mount Meru

    A dormant volcano that rises to 4,566m some 50 km west of Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru is Africa’s fifth-highest massif, and the three-day hike to its summit could be viewed either as a budget alternative to Kilimanjaro or a tempting aperitif for hikers who want to acclimatise to high altitude conditions …

    Protected within Arusha National Park, Meru supports a similar sequence of altitudinal vegetation zones to Kilimanjaro, but wildlife is far more prolific and the likes of elephant, buffalo and giraffe are seen quite regularly by hikers. The trails are also far less crowded than the more popular routes up Kilimanjaro, there’s less risk of altitude-related health issues, and the spectacular scenery includes views across to snow-capped Kilimanjaro. For those who aren’t ken on an overnight hike, it is also possible to undertake day walk into Meru’s partially-collapsed caldera and stand below the spectacular 1,500m-high cliff that forms its western wall.
  • Kinukamori and Kilasia Waterfalls

    Measuring about 15m and 30m high respectively, these two pretty waterfalls can easily be visited on foot om the small town of Marangu …

    Marangu, which forms a popular overnight stop prior to climbing Kilimanjaro, offers a good opportunity to acclimatise to medium-altitude hiking, the waterfalls are enclosed by forests that harbour a wealth of birds as well as troops of blue monkey and black-and-white colobus. The pool at the base of Kilasia Waterfall is said to be safe for swimming.
  • Lake Chala

    One of northern Tanzania’s most underrated scenic gems, Chala lies nestled within one of the subsidiary volcanic cones that stud the eastern foothills of Kilimanjaro …

    Invisible until you stand on the crater rim, the near-circular lake has a diameter of 3km and its translucent turquoise water is hemmed in by towering cliffs draped in tropical vegetation. A very steep footpath leads down to the shore, which teems with birdlife, but swimming is inadvisable due to the presence of crocodiles (one of which killed a British volunteer in 2002).
  • West Kilimanjaro

    The wedge of Tanzania land that divides the northwest base of Kilimanjaro from Amboseli National Park comprises several blocks of Maasai community land that recently amalgamated as the Enduimet Wildlife Management Area …

    Generally referred to as West Kilimanjaro, this 1,800km² tract of dry savanna is one of the Tanzania’s most underpublicised and exclusive safari destinations, serviced as it is by a mere two small upmarket tented camps. A major attraction is the in-your-face views of Kilimanjaro, but it also offers good wildlife viewing - wildebeest, zebra, eland, impala, Grant’s gazelle, hartebeest, the remarkable stretch-necked gerenuk, low densities of cheetah and lion. The resident elephant population is dominated by lone bulls, except over June and July, when large matriarchal herds cross through en route between Amboseli and the forests of Kilimanjaro.

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro

• Kilimanjaro routes
• Training for Kilimanjaro
• Kilimanjaro kit list

• • Overview

    Several different routes can be used to ascend and descend Mount Kilimanjaro. All have their advantages and disadvantages, and the best choice for any given individual depends largely on their priorities …

    Consider, for instance, whether your sole priority is to summit the roof of Africa, or is it equally important to maximise wildlife viewing potential and opportunities for scenic photography? Are you looking to keep costs to a minimum by using the shortest and most popular ascent route (five days and four nights), or are you willing to splash out on a slower and more gradual ascent route, thereby reducing the risk of altitude-sickness or exposure-related issues? Would you prefer to stay in the relatively comfortable huts that service the most popular route, or are you willing to sleep under canvas (a potentially chilly prospect at higher altitudes) in order to get away from the crowds? Whatever your requirements, the following notes will help isolate the route that best meets them.
  • Marangu Route

    Starting at the Marangu Gate near the small town of the same name, this is by far the most popular route up Kilimanjaro …

    Advantages are that it is significantly cheaper than other more obscure routes, less arduous than most, and has the best rescue facilities. Marangu is also the only route where you can sleep in proper huts throughout, with the added bonus of bathing facilities and bottled drinks for sale. Unsurprisingly, the Marangu Route is to some extent a victim of its popularity - trampled by a greater volume of tourists than all other routes combined, it can feel pretty overcrowded, especially in peak seasons (late July to early October and mid-December to mid-January). The ascent and descent of Marangu usually takes five days and four nights. Hikers spend the first night at Mandara Hut (set at 2,700m in the forest zone, and frequented by blue monkeys) and the second at Horombo Hut (situated at 3,720m in a valley studded with giant lobelia and groundsel). The third night starts at Kibo Hut (4,703m), from where it is customary to start the final ascent before 1am in order to reach Gillman’s Point at sunrise, then continue along the rim of Kibo Caldera to Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa, before returning to Horombo Hut for the fourth and final night. This is a demanding itinerary and the risk of altitude-related illness is greatly reduced by adding a full day and additional night at Horombo Hut before climbing into the alpine zone.
  • Machame Route

    Requiring at least six days and renowned for its spectacular scenery, Machame is the second most popular route up Kilimanjaro …

    A few short sections are slightly tougher than anything along the Marangu Route, but overall the ascent is gentler and it allows for a longer period for acclimatisation prior to summiting. There used to be mountain huts along the Machame Route, but these are now in ruins, so camping is the only option. The first night is spent at Machame Hut, which stands at an altitude of 2,890m on the cusp of the forest and moorland zones. The second might is spent in the moorland at Shira Hut (3,840m), where it is possible to sleep in a cave. The most usual options for the third and fourth nights are Barranco Campsite (3,950m) and Barafu Hut (4,600m), then a midnight start is required to reach Stella Point on the Kibo rim at sunrise.
  • Mweka Route

    The fastest ascent route to the summit of Kilimanjaro starts at Mweka Wildlife College and involves two steep day hikes to spend the first night at Mweka Hut (3,100m) and second at Barafu Hut (4,600m), neither of which is actually habitable, so you will need to camp …

    In theory, you could summit at Stella Point on the third morning and could be back at the base of the mountain on the afternoon of the forth day. However, this option is viable only for supremely fit hikers with sufficient experience to know they don’t require much acclimatisation. In practise, it is most often used as a quick descent route by people who ascended along the the Machame or Shira route.
  • Umbwe Route

    Connecting the village of Umbwe to Barranco Campsite (3,950m), this is possibly the most scenic official route up Kilimanjaro, but also the steepest, and the most dangerous, since it involves one short stretch of genuine rock climbing. It is occasionally used as a descent route, but many operators prefer not to take the risk.
  • Shira Route

    This most gradual of the ascent routes up Kilimanjaro starts at Shira Gate (3,590m) on the western flank and is ideally covered over six, seven or eight days …

    It crosses the scenic Shira Plateau, a tract of open Afro-alpine moorland that is studded with volcanic rock sculptures and which often hosts large mammals such as eland, elephant and buffalo. A disadvantage of this route is that it omits hiking through the forest zone (which might be no bad thing in the rainy season) but it also means you spend far longer above the 3,500m contour before starting to summit. It also tends to be very uncrowded, at last until it converges with the Machame Route prior to summiting at Stella Point. It is normal to descend through the forest zone following the Mweka Route.
  • Lemosho Route

    This relatively new and very beautiful six- to eight-day route starts in the west and runs roughly parallel to and south of the Shira Route before converging with it on the second day …

    The main advantage over Shira is that it starts at a significantly lower altitude, which means you get to hike through the forest zone, and are less likely to experience altitude-related issues on the first day or two.
  • Northern Circuit

    The newest, most remote and longest route on Kilimanjaro, the Northern Circuit is a thrilling variation on the Shira and Lemosho Routes that starts in the west then does a three-quarter circuit around the northern slopes of Kibo before summiting from the east on the penultimate day …

    The main advantage over Shira is that it starts at a significantly lower altitude, which means you get to hike through the forest zone, and are less likely to experience altitude-related issues on the first day or two.
  • Rongai Route

    The newest, most remote and longest route on Kilimanjaro, the Northern Circuit is a thrilling variation on the Shira and Lemosho Routes that starts in the west then does a three-quarter circuit around the northern slopes of Kibo before summiting from the east on the penultimate day …

    The main advantage over Shira is that it starts at a significantly lower altitude, which means you get to hike through the forest zone, and are less likely to experience altitude-related issues on the first day or two.
• • The ascent

    The ascent of Kilimanjaro should only be attempted by reasonably fit people, and inexperienced hikers might consider embarking on a training schedule to improve the chances of a successful climb …

    This needn’t be too arduous. Running and cycling will improve your aerobic fitness, and weightlifting might help build core strength, but the best like-for-like training for a Kili climb is hiking, ideally in hilly terrain and/or at altitude. Aim to build up to the point where you can comfortably hike for four to five hours with a light pack on your back. And do use these training hikes as an opportunity to break in the hiking boots you intend to wear on Kilimanjaro, and to get used to the day pack you plan to carry.
  • Altitude

    The main health risks on Kilimanjaro are related to altitude and to a lesser extent exposure, exacerbated by exhaustion …

    Uhuru Peak stands at a higher altitude than the base camps on Mount Everest, but the ascent involves a very rapid transition from below 1,000m to above 5,000m, and some people - particularly those who normally reside close to sea level - will have difficulty acclimatising in the space of a few days. Indeed, almost everybody who attempts the climb experiences some altitude-related symptoms, which range from shortness of breath, headaches and sleeplessness to nausea and swollen the hands or feet. If these symptoms become severe, or the sufferer starts coughing up saliva or blood, or displaying loss of a coordination, or experiences disorientation or hallucinations, the potentially fatal conditions called pulmonary or cerebral oedemas are indicated. Experienced guides will recognise these conditions, the only (and usually highly effective) remedy for which is immediate descent. The risk of altitude-related illness is greatly reduced by extra acclimatisation - that is, allowing an additional day or two for the ascent - and by walking at a relaxed, steady pace. Many people feel a loss of appetite at high altitude but it is vital to eat properly, concentrating on easily digested foodstuffs, especially carbohydrates and fruit. Drink at least three litres of water daily. A drug called Acetazolamide can be prescribed to help prevent or reduce symptoms of altitude-sickness.
  • Weather conditions

    Prolonged exposure to the cold and wet conditions often experienced on Kilimanjaro can result in hypothermia, which occurs when the body temperature drops below 35°C (95°F) and usually results in uncontrollable shivering before progressing to more severe symptoms if neglected …

    Hypothermia can be avoided by carrying plenty of warm, waterproof clothing designed for sub-zero conditions, and by dressing in layers so you can regulate your body temperature and sweat by removing or adding clothes as required. Severe hypothermia can be fatal, so if you experience heavy shivering, you should change into warm dry clothes and huddle up in a sleeping bag until the symptoms dissipate. A rescue fee is paid by all climbers upon entering the national park, but the rescue team only focuses on the Marangu Route. Its services must be arranged in advance for other routes.
• • Clothing

    Bring plenty of warm clothes, including at least one windproof and waterproof jacket, plenty of layers to wear underneath it, insulated vests and undergarments, hiking trousers …

    two pair of waterproof gloves (one heavy and one lightweight), a balaclava or beanie, one change of inner socks and thick hiking socks per day, a scarf or neck gaiter, and a wide hat that offers good protection from the sun. Hiking boots should be 100% waterproof and ideally have good ankle support and be properly worn in. Carry a second pair of lighter waterproof shoes for the evenings.
  • Luggage and bedding

    It is customary for operators to allocate one porter to every client to carry up to 15kg of gear. This is ideally carried in a large, solid waterproof duffel bag or rucksack to protect clothing and other items from getting wet …

    Porters usually hike separately from their clients, so you also need a waterproof day pack to carry all items you might need access to during the course of a day’s hiking. All reputable hiking companies will supply tents as required, and arrange porters to carry them, but you will need to check in advance whether sleeping bags and ground-mats are supplied, or you must bring your own. If the latter, you emphatically need a four-season sleeping bag designed for temperatures of -20°C, and should also bring a high quality ground mat.
  • Other gear

    Essentials include high UV sunglasses to protect your eyes from the tropical sun and and a head torch to use around camp at night …

    Light sleepers might like to carry earplugs. A pair of adjustable trekking pole will not only reduce the risk of slipping and injuring yourself, but it also reduces the impact on your knees during steep descents. Bring a waterproof bladder or water bottles with a total capacity of 2 litres to carry with you during the day, bearing in mind that disposable water bottles are quite rightly banned on Kilimanjaro. Binoculars are often essential for identifying birds and getting a close look at other wildlife, but they do add to the weight. Bring twice as many batteries as you need, as they tend to lose charge quickly in freezing conditions.
  • Camera gear

    Dedicated photographers carrying serious wildlife lenses for a safari leg of a visit to Tanzania will find little use for them on Kilimanjaro (a 28-70 zoom or similar should suffice for most situations on the mountain) …

    And they will either need to carry surplus camera gear themselves, or entrust it to a porter, in both cases with some risk of it getting wet or receiving rough treatment. The better option is to leave excess camera gear locked up somewhere safely for the duration of the hike.
  • Medical kit

    A good medical kit is essential. It should include pain killers (for instance paracetamol), an anti-inflammatory such as Ibuprofen, more plasters than you could possibly need (a few foot blisters are de rigueur on a Kili hike), high factor sunblock, a chapstick for your lips, and plenty of wet wipes. Acetazolamide can be prescribed to reduce the risk of altitude-related problems.
  • Food and snacks

    It is customary for meals to be included in a Kilimanjaro tour, but these should be supplemented by a stash of light and portable energy-rich snacks …

    These might include energy bars, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, glucose powder and the like. These items are sometimes available at the huts on the Marangu Route, but at vastly inflated prices.

What type of traveller are you?

• Overview
• Solo
• Couple
• Family

• Overview

  Climbing Kilimanjaro is an activity suited to relatively fit and adventurous travellers. The round trip takes five to 11 days, depending on which route is used, and it involves long days hiking on steep footpaths at high altitude, and sleeping in subzero conditions under canvas or in simple mountain huts. Solo travellers, couples, families and groups of friends all regularly tackle the ascent of Kilimanjaro, and the cost per person tends to become significantly cheaper as the group size increases.

  While climbing Kilimanjaro is not what most people would regard as a romantic destination, nor is it suited to inactive travellers, the view of the great mountain’s magnificent snow-capped peak from one of the exclusive bush camps set below its base in Amboseli National Park (Kenya) or West Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) is truly stirring.

• Climbing Kilimanjaro solo

  The main advantages of a solo Kilimanjaro climb are that you have total control over your route and walking pace, and that there is no risk of having to abort a summit because a fellow hiker succumbs to altitude sickness or wants to turn back. Disadvantages are that the price per person will be relatively high, since many of the logistical costs of putting together a Kilimanjaro climb are not significantly dependent on the size of the party. Bearing in mind that many guides and porters speak limited English, it might also be a rather lonely few days.

• Climbing Kilimanjaro as a couple

  It would be something of a stretch to characterise a Kilimanjaro climb as a romantic holiday. It is a tough hike in challenging climatic conditions, and opportunities for romance will be limited. That said, Kilimanjaro is very popular with and well-suited to adventurous couples where both partners are reasonably fit and enjoy active outdoor experiences. A Kilimanjaro climb will work out more cheaply per person for a couple than it would for a solo traveller, and most people would regard the companionship as a boon. It is important, however, that couples who are not well matched in terms of fitness, pace or stamina agree in advance whether the stronger partner will stick with the slower one, or each will do their own thing, in which case you need make sure two guides are on board.

  A romantic alternative to climbing Kilimanjaro is to spend a couple of nights near the base of the majestic mountain soaking up the view. Soaring 5km above the plains below, Kilimanjaro’s distinctive silhouette and snow-capped peak rank as of the most iconic sights on the African continent, bearing in mind that the upper slopes are usually swathed in a blanket of cloud that most often clears at dusk and dawn. There are plenty of good hotels dotted around the southern foothills in Tanzania, but a more attractive option - ensuring you have plenty to keep you occupied even when the clouds are unyielding - is to stay at a safari lodge in one of two superb conservation areas that lie in the shadow of Kilimanjaro. The better known of these is Kenya’s Amboseli National Park, which supports some the continent’s most impressively tusked and most habituated elephants. Its Tanzanian counterpart is West Kilimanjaro, an exclusive wildlife management area where traditional Maasai pastoral communities still live alongside an abundance of wildlife.

• Family hike up Kilimanjaro

  A qualified yes. The qualification being that a Kilimanjaro climb is both physically and mentally demanding, and the experience is likely to be enjoyed only by reasonably fit and determined individuals who are genuinely motivated to reach Africa’s tallest summit. If all members of a family or party of friends fit that description, a group hike should go well, and it will have several advantages in terms of keeping down the cost per person, and the varied company on offer. As with couples, it is important that groups hiking together are either well matched in terms of pace and stamina, or else agree in advance whether stronger hikers will stick back with the weaker ones, or they will split into slower and faster groups.

• Budget
• Affordable
• Luxury

• Climbing Kilimanjaro on a budget

  High park fees and logistical costs mean there is no such thing as a cheap Kilimanjaro climb. The best way to keep down costs is to form or join a group of four or more like-minded hikers, and to stick to the Marangu Route, which is more popular and busy than the other options, but also less logistically complicated. Even so, a Kilimanjaro climb is likely to seem pretty expensive by my standards. Worthy of consideration as a more budget-friendly alternative, nearby Mount Meru, protected within Arusha National Park, is Africa’s fifth-highest massif, and the three-day hike to its 4,566m summit is not only far cheaper bit it is also far less crowded, offers superior wildlife-viewing, comes with a lower risk of altitude-related sickness, and includes spectacular view to snow-capped Kilimanjaro.
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• Affordable Kilimanjaro climb

  The biggest costs associated with a Kilimanjaro climb are the high park fees and support costs. There is no way around these, but it will help keep things affordable to form or join a group of like-minded hikers, rather that travelling solo or as couple, and to stick to the very busy Marangu Route, which is the only one with mountain huts at every overnight stop, and poses fewer logistical complications than other routes. If you shop around, you will find that there is some variability in prices quoted by different operators, but beware of false economy, and don’t expect to get what you don’t pay for. Choosing a cheaper operators will generally mean you get lower standards of guiding, poorer food and inferior camping and other equipment, all of which reduces the likelihood of a successful summit.

  
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• Luxury Kilimanjaro tours

  Luxury is a relative term when applied to a Kilimanjaro climb. Overnight options boil down to hunkering down in a sleeping bag in a hiking tent or a basic mountain hut, and if you want to summit the great mountain, there is no escaping the steep uphill hikes, nor the cold on the upper slopes, nor the likely affects of altitude. In one sense, the most luxurious way to climb the mountain is to stick to the popular Marangu Route, which is much busier than other routes, but allows you to stay overnight in the relatively comfort of mountain huts with washing facilities and bottled drinks for sale.

  However, if you are looking for exclusivity rather than luxury per se, then far better to splash out and arrange to hike on of the lesser known routes. Depending on how much time and money you want to dedicate to the exercise, these range from the Machame and Rongai Route, both ideally undertaken over six days, to the slightly longer Lemosho and Shira Route, to the wonderfully scenic and remote Northern Circuit, a new route that can be undertaken over 9-11 days, depending on whether you opt to overnight in the stunning Kibo Crater. It is also worth researching the amenities offered by different operators - high quality food and equipment, experienced English-speaking guides and access to private ablution tents with pump-flush toilets all come at a price, but help enhance not only the comfort of a climb but also the likelihood of reaching the summit.

  
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