Jaclynn and Tedd, self-described “animal people” from the United States, left the familiar comforts of home for the sun-drenched plains of southern Africa. Their multi-country journey spanned the waterways of the Okavango Delta, the plains of Hwange, the thundering spray of Victoria Falls, and the legendary leopard country of MalaMala.
Unique big cat sightings, the rare glimpse of a brown hyena, and the intimate rhythm of life in the bush made this more than just a holiday – it was the realisation of a lifelong bucket list experience.
This is their story.
For years, Tedd and I had been the kind of travellers who sought out wildlife wherever we went.
We’ve seen the world’s great zoos and conservation centres, but there was always a lingering “what if” in our minds. What if we saw them where they truly belonged? What if we were the ones behind the glass – or in this case, the canvas and steel – looking out into their world?
Leaving home, there was a hum of anticipation that felt different from our other trips. We aren’t “package holiday” people; we like the off-the-beaten-path experiences. But as I started researching safaris, I realised that the sheer scale of Africa is overwhelming.
That’s when we found Discover Africa and our safari expert, Susan. We could never have navigated the bush planes, the border crossings, and the intricate dance of transfers on our own. We put our trust in her, and suddenly, the dream began to take a very physical shape.
The Delta and the Deep Green
Our journey began in the Okavango Delta at Xugana Island Lodge in Botswana. I’ll be honest – I hadn’t fully grasped the geography of the water until we were skimming across it. Coming from the States, the wetness of the Delta was a revelation.
At both Xugana Island Lodge and Camp Xakanaxa in Moremi Game Reserve, we found ourselves paired with bird people. Now, Tedd and I didn’t arrive as birders, but this experience opened our eyes to a whole other genre of the trip and, in hindsight, we really appreciated it.
The accommodations were, quite frankly, more than excellent. They call them “tent camps”, but with the views from our verandas and the six-star service, it felt like a world apart from any camping I’ve ever known.
However, we hit a small snag early on when it came to the food. It was exquisite, perhaps a bit too exquisite for Tedd’s simple palate. He’s a hamburger and fries man at heart, and the elaborate wine lists and gourmet menus left him a bit hungry.
We were on a walking safari when we stumbled upon a herd of 15 elephants. Our guide was stunned. 'Sometimes we find one,' he whispered, 'but 15?'
I reached out to Susan mid-trip, just to mention it. By the time we reached our next camp, they were ready for him. Seeing a plate of fries in the middle of the African bush because your safari expert made a phone call from thousands of miles away – that’s when you know you’re being looked after.
The Lessons of Camelthorn
From the lush Delta, we flew to Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. The transition was marked by the first of many bush plane gymnastics. Tedd is six foot four, and watching him crawl into and out of those tiny planes became the running joke of the trip.
At Camelthorn Lodge, we experienced the raw, human side of the wilderness. We spent time learning about how the lodge is giving back to the local communities through education initiatives. It moved me deeply, reminding me of mission trips I’d done in the past.
I like the fact that they’re trying to help people understand that there’s another way to sustain your family beyond poaching through anti-poaching projects. To save the wildlife rather than destroying it. It made the wildlife sightings feel more significant, knowing that the local people were choosing to protect these animals as a way of life.
We had a bit of a guide shuffle there; our original guide had a family emergency, so we were handed over to a young man named Gift. He was less experienced, but he was pure joy. We watched a pride of lions basking in the sun, and as the heat rose, they decided the best shade in the valley was the shadow of our truck. They were inches from the tyres.
Gift was so delightfully nervous he didn’t want to start the engine and spook them. We sat there, held captive by lions, laughing under our breath at the wonderful absurdity of it all.
It was also at Camelthorn that we had our privileged sighting. We were on a walking safari when we stumbled upon a herd of 15 elephants. Our guide was stunned. “Sometimes we find one,” he whispered, “but 15?” It felt like the continent was showing off for us.
Mist, Smoke, and the Lookout
After the dust of Hwange, arriving at Insika Lodge in Victoria Falls felt like a different kind of luxury. We’ve always been “big city” people when we travel, so we were perfectly content not to over-explore the town itself. Instead, we let the river take us. A sundowner cruise on the Zambezi offered a chance to breathe and watch the sky turn those impressive African shades of violet and orange.
When it came time to actually see the Falls, for us the timing was perfect. There’s often a debate about when to visit, too much water and you’re pummelled with mist until you can’t see the very thing you came for.
For us, the flow was just right. We had a lovely lunch at the famous Lookout Cafe, sitting right up against the edge. Looking out over that massive gorge while we ate was one of those pinch-me moments. It was the perfect bridge between the wildness of Zimbabwe and the legendary sands of our final stop that was coming up.
The Cycle of Life at MalaMala
If the Delta was the introduction and Hwange was the heart, MalaMala in the Greater Kruger of South Africa was the grand finale. By the time we reached Sable Camp, we thought we’d seen it all. Then we met David, our guide; with him the only way to explain our experience is beyond expectations.
At MalaMala, the animals aren’t just sightings; they are characters in a long-running drama. We watched African painted dogs with pups as young as ten weeks old – a rare, frantic, beautiful sight as they balanced nursing with their first tastes of meat. We saw a lioness nursing her cubs in the golden light, a moment of such profound tenderness that you forget these are apex predators.
But the moment that really stayed with us involved a leopard family. We had seen a female and her cub, and we’d heard the tragic news that showed us the realities of nature that the father had recently killed the male cub to assert dominance.
A few days later, we encountered the mother and daughter again, but this time, the male leopard returned. Hearing his dominant calls and watching the vocalisation between him and the cub was a sensory experience that no National Geographic documentary can prepare you for.
And then, there was the brown hyena. David spotted it from the truck and took off. Tedd was scrambling with his camera, and even the lodge staff were excited – they hadn’t spotted one in years. When the experts start pulling out their own cameras, you know you’re witnessing something special.
Photo Gallery
All photos by Jaclynn & Tedd
A Chapter Written in Gold
People ask us how the trip was, and I find myself struggling to find the right words. We went to Norway beforehand in the same year – a beautiful trip, but since we’ve been back from Africa, our safari is the only thing I talk about.
There is something about seeing an animal in its own territory, where you are the minority, that shifts your perspective. It’s a feeling of being a guest in a very old, very wild home.
As we flew back home from Johannesburg, leaving the dust and the heat behind, Tedd and I looked at each other and realised the bar had been set impossibly high. We’re already talking about Tanzania, about the Great Migration, but there’s a small part of us that’s afraid. Can anything ever top the nursing lioness? The 15 elephants on foot? The hamburger intervention?
Africa doesn’t just give you a vacation; it gives you a story that you carry in your heart. It’s a chapter of our lives that won’t soon be forgotten, a bucket list item that didn’t just meet expectations, it blew them across the savannah.
If you’re ready to step into a different world – one defined by elephant herds shaping the landscape and leopards asserting their dominance – allow us to create a southern Africa safari itinerary that will forever shift your perspective.
From the winding waterways of the Okavango Delta to the wildlife-rich plains of Hwange, a trip to Africa with us will forever lift your expectations of what an adventure should be.
Itinerary
Accommodations and Destinations
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A10 Sep 2025
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B12 Sep 2025
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C14 Sep 2025
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D18 Sep 2025
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E20 Sep 2025
Crafted with the expertise of Susan Veldman
“The guests normally book their own trips, but Jaclynn was a little concerned about booking southern Africa directly. We looked at various options and settled on Botswana, Vic Falls, and the Sabi Sands. They enjoyed the follow-ups and the personal attention to detail. Her husband complained that all he wanted was McDonald's, so I contacted all the lodges to ensure that they had something tasty for him at each lodge and camp. They were also retired travellers, so they stayed longer at each camp.”
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