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Marjanne and her sister Catherine ventured into Africa on a 22-day winding route across the ancient red sands of Namibia, into the deep watery veins of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, and finally to the thundering smoke of Victoria Falls.
Letting go of control and surrendering to Africa time, the duo were able to fully immerse themselves in the magic of southern Africa.
This is their story.
I’ve always considered myself an independent, slow traveller. Left to my own devices, I’m drawn to the rugged, unscripted edge of the world, the Australian Outback, four-by-four tracks, and bush camping. I crave the physical challenge of the wild.
But this trip was different, because my sister was joining me.
My sister is different from me; she navigates the world slower than I would, so when I first began imagining this African journey, I knew my usual backcountry grit wouldn’t do. The trip had a good blend to it. Gondwana in Namibia was the more budget-conscious part, while Botswana was the luxury option, chosen for the Okavango Delta and the variety it offered. Doing it in that order worked really well; we started simpler and finished with the luxury.
Before leaving our home in Canada, I worried about the smallest details like navigating the strict plastic bag bans across the borders and how my body would tolerate malaria pills. I meticulously packed string bags for everything and learned on the move that the pills required a thick, hearty helping of morning yoghurt to settle.
Yet, the true transition wasn’t about what was in our duffel bags; it was about shifting our minds. Coming from the fast-paced hustle of North America, the local people gently taught us how to slow down. I remember anxiously asking when our transport would arrive, only to be met with a warm, puzzled smile. “You’re on vacation,” they would say. “Why do you need to know when the transport is coming? Go and relax. We know where you are.”
A British traveller later put it into perspective for me when they said, “Marjanne, you have to understand, it wasn’t that long ago that people here got up at sunrise and went to bed at sunset. Time isn’t broken down into one-hour segments. It’s sunrise, sunset, and the stuff in between.”
Once I understood the rhythm of “now-now”, I let go. We sat back and let Africa time carry us.
The Rhythm of the Land
Our journey began in Windhoek at The Weinberg, a soft landing before the vast landscapes of Namibia claimed us. A four-hour drive southwest, we arrived at The Desert Grace; the desert was quiet, vast, and baked in timeless heat.
From the shifting, surreal clays of Deadvlei, we moved toward the coast, arriving at The Delight in Swakopmund. It lived up to its name entirely. The staff had a rare, intuitive understanding of hospitality. I still tell people about Goodman at the front desk, a man who deserves a promotion. One evening, without being asked, he borrowed the hotel shuttle just to come into town and pick us up from dinner. It was like making a new friend at every turn.
From the coastal fog of Swakopmund, we moved inland to the rugged ridges of Damaraland and the iconic expanse of Etosha.
Then came Botswana, and with it, a noticeable shift. The moment we stepped off the light aircraft, the handover was swimmingly efficient. Bags were whisked away, and we were escorted through a wilderness that felt entirely alive.
We stayed at Xugana Island Lodge, tucked deep within the Okavango Delta, where water lilies carpeted the secret channels, before flying to Camp Xakanaxa. Every lodge had its own distinct personality, but what I loved most was the communal spirit. We opted to eat family-style, sitting with the staff and fellow travellers for meals, sharing stories from the day’s game drives.
We watched and suddenly the wild awakened. It became Grand Central Station out there.
Grand Central Station at Leroo La Tau
When I first planned this trip, Leroo La Tau was a place I insisted on visiting. I had heard whispered stories of its hide, a place where you could sit quietly and watch the wildlife of the Boteti River.
One afternoon, the heat became extreme, heavy and thick over the dry riverbed. We watched and suddenly the wild awakened. It became Grand Central Station out there.
The elephants were actually running towards the water. They were so thirsty. They just stuck their trunks in there, swished the water around, drank deeply three or four times, and then just rested.
Zebras filled the air with an incredible chorus of neighs and calls. Our guide explained that because different family groups of five or ten get entirely mixed up in the chaos of a crowded waterhole, they call out to find one another in the crowd. Zebras, I learned, only walk with their friends. Watching that intricate bond unfold in the shimmering heat was a moment that completely took my breath away.
Photo Gallery
Photos by Leroo La Tau
Through Their Eyes
Our guides were the heartbeat of this entire experience. Beyond their encyclopedic knowledge, it was their pride, humility, and deep community roots that grounded us. These were men who lived alongside the wildlife they tracked.
When a guide told you to sit down in the vehicle, you sat. I remember a new tourist in another vehicle who carelessly stood up in the presence of a lioness without asking. The way that lioness shifted her gaze to lock eyes with her – you do not want a lion to look at you like that. It reminded us instantly that we were guests in a dominant, wild kingdom.
Yet, there was immense tenderness, too. At Xugana, our guide, Joe, navigated a little boat through thick water lilies to show us a remote bird-nesting island. Every 20 minutes, the lilies would get tangled in the propeller. Without a single complaint, Joe would lift the motor, pull out a broomstick, and clear the debris, determined to show us the adult and juvenile storks.
Then there was our marine day trip out of Swakopmund with Mola Mola. A mother in our tour group became severely seasick and had to stay behind while her husband and two young sons carried on. The father’s phone battery died halfway through the day. Seeing this, our guide immediately took out his own phone, captured beautiful photographs of the little boys eating fresh oysters and barbecued crayfish on the beach, and quietly swapped WhatsApp details to ensure the family wouldn’t lose those memories. It felt like travelling with a protective old friend.
Realities of the Road
Namibia was the part of the trip where we were really on the road: long drives, dusty days, and some unexpected moving between very different places. It was all part of the experience, and it made the shift into Botswana feel even more noticeable.
When we finally transitioned to Chobe Game Lodge, we experienced a different kind of shock, luxury culture shock.
After weeks in intimate, small eco-lodges run by generators, we walked into a bustling, fully air-conditioned property with 90 guests. We watched in amusement as travellers pulled massive, hard-shell suitcases on wheels, a stark contrast to our dusty, soft-sided duffel bags. It was a funny moment, one that made us appreciate the quiet, raw simplicity of the smaller camps even more.
Meaning and Reflection
Our journey culminated at Insika Victoria Falls, listening to the thunderous roar of the Zambezi River. Looking back, this trip became an incredibly meaningful chapter in my life.
I got to share a beautiful experience with my sister. I watched her look out over landscapes we never thought she’d see, entirely cared for by the hands of exceptional porters and guides.
While I missed the physical grit of bush camping at times, there was a beautiful lesson in allowing myself to be pampered, in learning to sit quietly by a window, doing nothing but watching the zebras talk to their friends.
What stays with me are the small things: watching the elephants wash the silt from the water lilies before eating them, hearing “now-now” in its own wonderfully flexible way, and slowly learning to stop watching the clock so closely. Africa doesn’t meet you on your terms; it invites you to surrender to its own, and once we settled into it, that became part of the joy.
Are you dreaming of your own surrender into the wilderness of Africa? Whether you want to take the adventurous route where the grit of the road is palpable, or you long for a true wellness escape where peace reigns, Discover Africa can map out your perfect experience.
Itinerary
Accommodations and Destinations
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A19 Oct 2025
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B20 Oct 2025
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C
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D24 Oct 2025
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E25 Oct 2025
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F27 Oct 2025
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G28 Oct 2025
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H30 Oct 2025
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I1 Nov 2025
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J4 Nov 2025
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K6 Nov 2025
Crafted with the expertise of Devryn Panaino
“It was her dream to go on an adventurous African trip. She wanted to cover a lot of ground and see as much as she possibly could! Her passion was amazing. I loved that each portion of her trip had a purpose. We assisted her with a lot of her on-the-ground requests to ensure that everything went smoothly for her. I really enjoyed working with her.”
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