Madagascar Holiday

Once coveted by French and British military powers for its strategic importance, the northern port town of Antsiranana has grown into an eclectic holiday destination with a diverse mix of architecture and cultural influences that include Creole, Indian, Colonial and Arab. In the middle of the harbour, a small island (nicknamed ‘the sugarcube’) rises out of the water and the region is ringed by a lush hillscape that’s as dramatic to look at as it is to explore. There’s a wide variety of accommodation available, from budget backpackers to upmarket beach lodges. With its secluded beaches, bustling nightlife and extensive list of adventure activities such as surfing, kitesurfing and trail running, Antsiranana offers something for everyone.

Hike French Mountain (Montagne des Francias)

For some of the best views of the turquoise bay and colourful town, it’s worth taking the four-hour hike up to the top of French Mountain. The trail is well-maintained and set inside a protected area home to lemurs and baobabs. On clear days you can see the island of Nosy Lonjo from the summit.

Go Surfing or Kitesurfing

There are several fantastic bays around the east coast of Antsiranana and the conditions in Madagascar’s north are perfect for surfing and, especially, kitesurfing. Sakalava Bay and Andovokonko Bay are two notable examples, which have increased in popularity over the past few years. New lodges and surfer-friendly facilities have started to garner attention from the international surfing community.

Visit Amber Mountain National Park (Montagne D’Ambre)

This park is home to some of the most pristine montane rainforest in the world. When dry, the its beautiful peaks (massifs) can be reached by road and in general it’s one of Madagascar’s most accessible parks and a great place to get close to the enormous ferns, ancient cycads, chameleons and lemurs that are endemic to the island.

Spend the Night in Ankarana National Park

This unusual park is also home to more than 100km of underground caves that wind their way beneath the limestone tsingy (rock pinnacles shaped by the wind). Many have their own small ecosystems and some feature underground lakes containing cave-dwelling crocodiles. The best way to experience this park is to book a few nights at one of the upmarket lodges on its outskirts as most include transfers via 4×4 from Antsiranana.

Practical information

• Antsiranana is well connected by air with weekly flights from Nosy Be and daily flights from Antananarivo. There are also a few direct flights from a handful of international destinations.
• While the weather here is similar to Madagascar’s eastern zone, the region has its own microclimate and conditions tend to change quite quickly.
• Taxis are a good way to get around town, but get an estimate of the price before you set out as unscrupulous drivers do sometimes overcharge.

About 400km south of Antananarivo is Fianarantsoa, considered the cultural capital of Madagascar. Split into an upper and lower town, Fianarantsoa has a captivating historical charm. The upper, referred to as the ‘old town’, is perched on a hill with the Antranobiriky Church at its centre and there is a good mix of midrange and budget accommodation to be found. However, it’s the surrounding areas that are the biggest drawcard for visitors. A mix of undulating valleys and exotic plantations offer holidaymakers something quite different from the rest of the country. Fianar, as it’s affectionately known, is also the gateway to the eastern rainforests and is best suited to adventurous travellers who don’t mind long travel times, or those happy to hire a vehicle and driver.

Explore Ranomafana National Park

Madagascar’s rainforests are a naturalist’s nirvana and Ranomafana is the best park in the country to experience its wild mix of ancient forest and curious wildlife (new species are being discovered every year). There are a variety of well-marked trails inside the park and guides are particularly adept at finding lemurs.

Ride the Fianarantsoa-Cote Est Railway

This 163-kilometre-long railway line is built from rails taken from Germany after WW1. It runs between Fianaro and Manakara on the east coast, a full-day trip that departs on Tuesdays and Saturdays with the return journey from Manakara on Wednesdays and Sundays. You’ll cross a total of 67 bridges and go through 48 tunnels – one tunnel is over a kilometre long.

Visit the Highlands Town of Ambalavao

About 56km southwest of Fianar is the remarkable highland town of Ambalavao with its distinct architecture of carved balconies and steep red-tiled roofs. It’s also home to the world-famous Antiamoro Paper Factory, which manufactures a papyrus-type paper infused with dried flowers.

Practical Information

• There’s an airport in Fianarantsoa, but no regularly scheduled flights. Getting there takes about seven or eight hours by road from Antananarivo and you’ll need to hire a vehicle with driver or use a taxi-brousse (local bus). As such, Fianar is generally a destination for the hardier traveller and usually done as part of a longer trip from Antananarivo down to the south coast.
• You’ll need cash to pay for national park entry permits and the various other conservation fees along the way. Although not particularly expensive, it can get complicated with all the different permits involved, so be sure to get the latest details and prices before you set out.

Mahajanga is the largest commercial port town on Madagascar’s west coast and the hub of the country’s trade with East Africa. As one of the first points of contact between mainland Africa and Madagascar, it has a rich history and a wonderful mix of culture coloured by merchants and traders. Set along the Bomboteka River delta, there’s lots to see outside of town and most holidaymakers head north to explore the area’s natural highlights from one of several exclusive resorts along the coast. The region is best known for its African baobabs (an introduced species), one of which plays a major role as a traffic island!

Visit Cirque Rouge

About 12km north of Mahajanga is a dramatic natural rock formation – a canyon of eroded sandstone with rock pinnacles rising like church spires. Visitors can walk down to the bottom of the valley where a river runs out towards the sea. It’s best visited in the late afternoon when the formations seem to glow in the soft, warm light.

Take the ferry to Katsepy and the Antrema Reserve

Across the bay from Mahajanga is the small fishing village of Katsepy and just beyond it the Antrema Reserve, a magnificent mix of mangrove forests and lakes. The ferry crossing from Mahajanga takes 45 minutes each way and exploring the small fishing village and hiking one of the short park trails is a great way to spend a day.

Visit Ankarafantsika National Park

A delight for hikers, this national park is about three hours away from Mahajanga. It’s tourist friendly with well-marked and well-maintained trails and there are also boat tours of Lake Ravelobe available. It’s home to the rare Madagascan radiated tortoise, sifakas, mongoose lemurs and western woolly lemurs, and is the only place in the world where you might spot the golden-brown mongoose lemur.

Explore the Town

Mahajanga is well known for its nightlife and the town is abuzz once the sun goes down. During the day, travellers who want to get familiar with Mahajanga’s history can take a self-guided walk (about 2.5 hours), following the 18 numbered plaques that link the major points of interest around town. Maps are available from the tourist office.

Practical Information

As a relatively busy port town, Mahajanga has good facilities, including clinics, ATMS and shopping. There’s also good road access from Antananarivo, although it will still take you 10 hours in a private vehicle and significantly more on public transport. Many of the lodges along the coast north of Mahajanga also offer direct fly-in packages from Antananarivo.

On Madagascar’s west coast, this ultra-relaxed seaside town was once a popular stopover for sailors trading with chiefs of the Sakalava Kingdom. Today it’s the centre of a large rice-growing region and, aside from its sandy streets and seaside bungalows, there’s not a lot to see or do; it’s beyond the town where the treasures lie. More or less mirroring the distant Mozambique coastline, the landscape north and south of Morondava boasts remote beaches, deciduous forests, sprawling deltas and waterways teeming with life. Exploring the region’s excellent nature reserves is definitely for the more adventurous traveller, while those looking for a laid-back beach break will find a range of hotels and resorts along the beautiful boulevard that runs along Nosy Kely Peninsula.

Walk along Baobab Avenue

With trees up to 30 metres high, the baobabs along this famous ‘avenue’ in Madagascar are unique not only because of their size but also because this is one of the few places where they’re almost completely unobstructed by surrounding forests. This makes for spectacular photographs, with dawn and dusk the best times to capture their isolated silhouettes against a purpling sky.

Take a 4×4 trip to Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park

Only accessible from May to November (and even then, only via a 10-hour 4×4 drive or chartered flight) this UNESCO World Heritage Site is fantastic for nature lovers. With gigantic grey rock pinnacles (called tsingy) that appear to be balanced precariously on top of one another, and careful walkways and suspension bridges that somehow manage to link them together, it’s an otherworldly landscape. Alien-like succulents, sifakas, crocodiles and chameleons, complete the stunning picture and there are six hiking trails of varying lengths that allow visitors to explore on foot. You’ll find a wide range of accommodation, from basic camping to luxury lodges, at Bekopata just a few kilometres from the park entrance.

Visit Kirindy Reserve

Not to be confused with Kirindy-Mitia National Park, which lies directly to the south of Morondava, Kirindy Reserve is 65km to the north and one of Madagascar’s most recently established protected areas. Despite its history as a logging zone, it’s home to significant concentrations of wildlife and plenty of reptiles, including collared iguanas and hognose snakes. It’s also one of the best places in the country to spot fossa, a rather curious cat-mongoose that eats lemurs and lizards and is endemic to Madagascar.

Practical Information

This region of Madagascar is hot and dry, especially in summer. If you’re planning to hike, rock climb, or spend the day outdoors doing anything physical, then be sure to make an early start and avoid the afternoon heat. Travelling to the national parks and reserves in this area can be a challenge, especially if you’re travelling alone or not staying at lodge that offers transfers. Tour operators generally charge per vehicle with the onus on single travellers to negotiate between themselves to split the costs.

Nosy Be is a small island a few kilometres off the north-western coast of Madagascar. It’s Madagascar’s quintessential beach-holiday destination, with a delightful climate almost year-round and white-sand beaches so pure they squeak. Its coral reefs are colourful and prolific and the tropical waters, warmed by the Agulhas Current, beckon you in. Inland, forested reserves and lush ridges are home to island birds, peculiar reptiles and lemurs, making Nosy Be an unmissable destination for sun seekers and nature lovers alike. On its south coast, the small port town of Andoany (more commonly known by its former French name, Hell-Ville) connects Nosy Be to mainland Madagascar by ferry. It’s awash with bright colours, tuk-tuks, old colonial buildings and busy markets selling fresh seafood and spices and everywhere the hypnotising scent of ylang-ylang blossoms drifts through the air.

Highlights

Go snorkelling or scuba diving: Nosy Be’s inshore waters are shallow and protected by colourful coral reefs, making this one of the safest swimming spots in Madagascar and perfect for families. The majority of hotels and seaside resorts provide gear and offer snorkelling excursions for all ages, while many also organise scuba-diving trips for more adventurous guests. Marine highlights include hawksbill-, loggerhead- and green turtles, which swim through the underwater meadows and use beaches on the nearby archipelagos for nesting. Reef visitors include clownfish, pufferfish, batfish and butterflyfish and lucky divers might spot dolphins, humpback whales or even a whale shark at the right time of year.

Hire a Scooter

There’s something particularly exotic about exploring an island with the wind in your hair and Nosy Be is the perfect place to do it. The island is circled by a ring road so it’s almost impossible to get lost. It also gives you the freedom to explore some of the lesser-visited bays and for budget travellers it’s much cheaper than paying for a taxi.

Visit the Markets

A visit to one of the markets in Hell-Hell-Ville is an incredibly fun excursion filled with just the right mix of chaos, exotic sights, smells and sounds. It also gives you the opportunity to buy arts and crafts directly from local artists and support the local economy.

Charter a Boat

Get even closer to Nosy Be’s incredible marine life by hiring a live-aboard catamaran and spending several days exploring the nearby islands of Radamas and Mitsios. Catamarans are available for groups or families with exclusive service (you won’t be sharing with strangers) and generally come with their own private chef. Whale watching excursions can also be arranged, while deep-sea fishing is a year-round activity with kingfish, sailfish, wahoo, mackerel and yellow-fin tuna on the bill.

Go Hiking in Lokobe National Park:

For landlubbers, Nosy Be’s Lokobe National Park offers a magical mix of island flora and fauna which visitors can spot on one of three hiking trails. These range from an easy one-hour forest meander to a more challenging three-hour route. There’s also the option to hire a pirogue (small dugout canoe) and explore the shores of the park from the water.

Practical Information

• Nosy Be shares a microclimate with the north of Madagascar, largely dominated by the Tsaratanana Massif. This gives it year-round sunshine and daytime highs that rarely dip below 20°C (68F). It also means that rain can fall at any time of year, but the showers don’t usually last longer than a few hours. Unlike much of Madagascar, where prices for accommodation are listed as ‘per room’ the prices for accommodation on Nosy Be are generally quoted ‘per person.’ Keep this in mind when comparing quotes and always ask before booking.
• Most travellers arrive by air, on local flights from Antananarivo or Antsiranana, or on long haul flights from hubs such as Johannesburg or Paris. These direct flights allow travellers to avoid the potential hassle of flying via the mainland, but as such are hugely popular and get booked up very far advance.
• Nosy Be is extremely safe and the people are incredibly friendly and helpful but it’s still best to avoid walking alone after dark, or flashing valuables. There are opportunists everywhere.

Nosy Boraha (formerly and still more commonly known as Îl Sainte-Marie) is a sliver of paradise off Madagascar’s northeast coast. A notorious pirate hideout in the late 17th century, it’s believed that this tropical islet once provided shelter for almost 1000 marauders. They would shelter in its calm bays between escapades into the Indian Ocean, plundering vessels as they returned from the West Indies laden with riches, especially spices. The remains of some of their pirate ships still lie just beneath the surface at Baie des Forban, a tantalising prospect for divers and snorkelers. Nowadays, Nosy Boraha’s long, palm-shaded beaches, tropical rainforests and selection of rustic-chic lodges and luxury hotels, provide the perfect hideaway for holidaymakers looking for an even quieter island escape that can be found on Nosy Be.

Go Whale Watching

Nosy Boraha is the best place in Madagascar to be during whale season, which runs from July to September. As they make their way north (many to Antongil Bay on mainland Madagascar to calve), humpback whales filter through the eight-kilometre-wide channel between Nosy Boraha and the mainland. Because of this, they generally drift quite close to the shoreline and spotting them can be as easy as sitting outside your hotel and glancing across the water. Boat tours can also be arranged if you’d like to get up close.

Explore the Town of Ambodifotatra

Nosy Boraha’s main hub is not much more than a long sandy road but it’s an exciting mix of old French architecture and exotic goods. There’s a market on Tuesdays and Thursdays where you can buy fresh fruit, fish, cloves, coco rum and handicrafts. Those willing to venture a little further can visit the pirate cemetery south of town – there’s even one with the classic skull and crossbones on the headstone!

Go Snorkelling and Diving

The shallow waters and secluded bays around Nosy Boraha make it an excellent destination for snorkelling. The best spots are near Atafana and La Crique on the central western shores where the mix of healthy coral reefs and shallow wrecks make for an enchanting underwater experience. Further out, black-coral reefs and expansive granite-bouldered seabed are the perfect environment for scuba divers to encounter grouper, grey sharks, stingrays and barracuda. There are also a handful of deeper wrecks for more experienced divers to explore.

Take a Pirogue (dugout canoe) to Île Aux Nattes:

For solitude and total isolation, this small island off the southern tip of Nosy Boraha is perfection. There are no roads and no cars, the beaches are gorgeous and the coral reefs some of the best in the world.

Practical Information

• Nosy Boraha’s location is a double-edged sword. Its position off Madagascar’s more temperamental east coast has saved it from overdevelopment, but the weather can be unpleasant at certain times of the year (January to March).
• Nosy Boraha has some exceptional hotels and lodges and there are regular flights scheduled from Antananarivo and Taomasina. Be aware that these can get severely overbooked during the holiday season (July and August) so last-minute bookings are not advisable.
• Swimming on Nosy Boraha should be done with caution – while there are several safe, shallow bays, Madagascar’s east coast is known for its strong currents and much of the island is not protected by coral reefs.
• When booking whale-watching tours, be sure to find a reputable operator that adheres to ethical whale watching guidelines – some have been known to use unethical tactics to try and get visitors as close to the whales as possible.

At the southern end of Madagascar’s spectacular eastern rainforests, Taolagnaro (formerly and still commonly known as Fort Dauphin) has the charm and je ne sais quois of a French port town-turned-holiday-destination, without any of the tourist trappings. At least not yet! Situated on a thin outcrop peninsula, the little town is almost completely circled by gorgeous beaches, while behind it a hefty shoulder of mountains and classic Madagascan spiny forest give it a sense of complete isolation. (In fact, it’s more than just ‘a sense’ – this former French outpost has incredibly poor road access.) Along its shores, pirogue boats bob in the ebbing tide and locals move languidly between the clutches of colonial buildings and straw rondavel huts. Surfers wait for perfect breaks and lobster nets are only checked every now and again. Time comes to an almost complete stop here, which makes it the perfect destination for a holiday that feels like it could last a lifetime.

Hit the Beaches

Blessed with a seemingly endless coastline, Taolagnaro is home to some superb swimming beaches (Libanona Beach is considered the best), as well as tidal pools and even a handful of shallow reefs worth exploring. There are also a handful of world-famous surf spots that include sites for relative newbies such as Ankoba Beach and more advanced breaks such as Monseigner Bay.

Visit Berenty Reserve

Probably Madagascar’s best-known reserve, Berenty is about three hours west of Taolagnaro but certainly worth a visit for the more adventurous traveller. It’s unusually verdant for this part of Madagascar, thanks to its position on the Mandrare River. While most reserves and national parks in Madagascar require that you take a guide, Berenty is unique in that guests can walk the trails unguided and explore the riverine and baobab-scattered forest in search of lemurs. Five species are common here, the most famous being Verraux’s sifaka, known for its comical poses which make the lemur look like it’s dancing.

Tour the Forts

Toalagnaro is home to the oldest building in Madagascar, a fort whose origins remain somewhat of a mystery. Some claim it was built by shipwrecked Portuguese sailors in 1504 while others maintain it was a Swahili structure erected centuries prior. Worth a visit too is the Flacourt Fort, built more than a century later. Both forts offer a fascinating glimpse in to the history of this part of the island.

Practical Information

• Effectively cut off from the rest of the island due to its extremely poor access roads, you’ll want to make your holiday in Taolagnaro a fly-in and fly out affair. There are local flights from Antananarivo daily; the alternative is hours of bumpy and unreliable public transport.
• • Although very safe, it’s generally a good idea to keep valuables out of sight and to avoid walking alone along the beaches at night.
• • Swim and surf only at designated beaches – Madagascar’s south east coast has areas with very strong currents and swimming can be dangerous outside indicated areas.

Toamasina (formerly known as Tamatave) is Madagascar’s main port city. It’s situated on the east coast, on the northern edge of the island’s vast rainforests. The region around it is characterised by long beaches, split by rivers that empty into the sea. High concentrations of unique flora and fauna can be found, as well as exotic plantations of coffee, vanilla, clove, banana, coconut and lychee. The city itself is an enticing mix of bric-a-brac sophistication – boulevards lined with palm trees and upmarket hotels sit alongside old, crumbling colonial buildings and creole houses built on stilts.

Take a boat trip down the Pangalanes Canal

Just south of Taomasina, at Port Fluvial, you’ll find a series of lakes linked by canals that were built during the French colonial occupation. Their quiet waters are perfect for idling the day away as you glide by on a dug-out pirogue, past the private nature reserves that line the shore.

Explore the Port Town

You can do this officially, with a historic guided tour, or at your leisure with a map from the local tourist office. There are buildings that date back to the early colonial era and three fascinating museums, which highlight everything from the town’s beginnings as a pirate community to local modern art and Malagasy culture.

Rent an ATV

Exploring Madagascar’s east coast on a four-wheeler is something for the adventurous, with day tours down to the Pangalanes Canal and overnight trips into the surrounding forests and nature reserves. For added excitement some itineraries include river crossings.

Practical Information

• As Madagascar’s major port city, Toamasina is one of the few coastal destinations that are relatively easy to get to by land – a good network of roads links it to Antananarivo and the journey takes about seven hours. There are, however, also daily flights from Antananarivo for those who want to minimise travel time.
• Toamasina has good facilities – ATMs, supermarkets and a shopping mall all serviced by rickshaws, tuk-tuks and taxis.
• As a holiday destination, Toamasina is probably Madagascar’s most weather-dependant – visiting midyear is magical experience whereas during the wetter summer months (December to April) the rainfall can feel endless and there is always the risk of cyclones.

Toliara is Madagascar’s southern paradise. Largely centred around St. Augustine’s Bay, this coastal town and its surrounds are blessed with an excellent mix of pristine beaches, clear tidal pools and shallow frontal reefs, making it a wonderful place to snorkel and swim. With less rainfall than the rest of Madagascar and consistently warm days even during winter, it’s also a year-round beach destination. Inland, a handful of truly exotic national parks and reserves are home to unique arid landscapes which support some of the world’s rarest flora and fauna, most famously a family of large spiny plants that look like they belong on another planet.

Explore St Augustine’s Bay

You’ll never tire of this 14-kilometre-long coastline. Stretching south from Toliara’s airport to the Onilahy River mouth, you’ll find a mix of open beaches, rock pools, caves and mangrove forests, while offshore, dhows lean gently over on the white sand, waiting for the tide to lift them up on gently rising, turquoise waters.

Go Scuba Diving and Snorkelling

The Toliara region was once Madagascar’s most popular destination for underwater activities, however overfishing and silting have left large parts of the seabed in poor condition. That said, there is still a good reef, called Massif de Roses, at Ifaty, which is 24km north of the town and is where you’ll find the best diving in the area.

Visit the Reniala Forest Reserve

There are several small reserves a little way inland. Reniala Forest Reserve is one of the best and home to some of the typical flora and avifauna of the southern region – spiny forests, long-tailed ground rollers, sub-desert mesites – as well as Madagascar’s famous lemurs. Routes are well marked but walks are guided and should be booked in advance.

Go hiking, mountain climbing or horse riding at Isalo National Park

It’s a four-hour drive inland from Toliara but a one- or two-night stay at Isalo National Park is incredibly rewarding for active travellers, especially hikers and mountain climbers. Here, deep canyons cut into the rock are home to extraordinary arid flora and succulents and there are several well-marked trails and rock pools in the reserve, plus number of midrange and exquisite upmarket lodges.

Practical Information

• Toliara offers a wide range of accommodation, from affordable backpackers to ultra-luxury lodges.
• This is the driest and hottest part of Madagascar, sometimes getting no rainfall at all in a year. If you’re planning any physical activities, then start as early as possible as it gets extremely hot in the afternoons.
• It takes two days (20 hours of driving) to get to Toliara from Antananarivo so flying is the best option for most visitors.
• While Toliara itself has good facilities for holidaymakers (ATMS, shopping, clinics), the surrounding areas generally have very little so be sure to draw cash and buy supplies before heading out.

Although flights are relatively expensive, Madagascar is much more affordable once you land. There are good-value, mid-range hotels and lodges to be found throughout the island and its archipelagos, although the widest variety is in and around the mainland beach towns of Antsiranana, Taomasina, Tulear and Morondava. Here you can choose between half-board lodges or self-catering apartments, with nearby restaurants and cafes, vibrant nightlife and easy access to a variety of tour operators. Tours can be arranged into the nearby parks and reserves, or there’s also the option of staying just outside a park’s borders where there’s almost always a good selection of reasonably-priced lodges and hotels offering transfers and guided tours. The eastern rainforests and the deciduous parks in the west have excellent nearby accommodation and tend to be more popular. The north and arid south also have good options, but on the whole, are quieter.

Tulear Surf Camp

Highlights

Madagascar offers a wonderful sense of freedom and spontaneity for travellers on a mid-range budget. Bespoke itineraries, guided tours and even vehicle hire (almost always only bookable with a driver included) can be arranged at reasonable rates, which means combining the magic of Madagascar’s beaches with its natural marvels – without having to worry about logistics. Superb combinations include Tulear and Isalo National Park; Morondava and Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park; Nosy Be, Antsiranana and Ankarana National Park; and Taolagnaro and Berenty Reserve. Prices depend largely on the region, season, scope of activities and type of accommodation, but $1700 a person is a rough benchmark for a six- night custom tour with transfers, accommodation, activities, and most meals included. Alternatively, a 4×4 with driver costs around 500,000Ar ($135) a day, while half-day excursions (whale spotting by boat from Nosy Boraha; island-hopping from Nosy Be; horse-riding in Isalo National Park) are generally around 200,000Ar ($55) a person.

Travel Tips

Organising an itinerary in Madagascar yourself can be frustrating and time consuming. If your budget allows, it’s almost always better to spend a little more on a booking a tour through an established, trusted operator that knows the country well. You’ll spend more time enjoying the islands’ splendours and less being frustrated by tricky travel arrangements and logistics. Keep this in mind when comparing prices – a few extra bucks can save a lot of headaches. You can pick up good deals by travelling in the shoulder months of April, May and October, and even better ones if you’re prepared to brave the rains in January and February, although you risk the chance of a washed-out holiday. If you’re not flying directly to any of the coastal towns, then select itineraries closer to Antananarivo – Morondava, Toamasina, Nosy Boraha and Fianarantsoa are good options. Expect to pay around 200,000Ar ($55) a couple a night for mid-range, half-board lodges and about half that for self-catering. Mid-range accommodation on the outskirts of Madagascar’s national parks is around 400,000Ar ($110) for a double room including transfers.

Travelling on a budget in Madagascar can be exciting and immersive, provided you’re willing to accept that it may not always be comfortable. Distances are significant and public transport generally old and crowded; the most affordable way get around takes time and often involves a few bumps! Antananarivo has the biggest selection of budget accommodation, offering the widest variety of low-cost guesthouses, hostels and basic rooms. Further afield, you’ll find budget hostels and hotels close to the beaches in Taolagnaro, Antsiranana and Tulear as well as in tourist hotspots such as Nosy Be. Across the rest of the island, there’s budget accommodation almost everywhere in the form of plain, simple rooms with shared ablutions and facilities.

Highlights

Great surfing at great prices is one of Madagascar’s major highlights. For budget surf rentals and lessons, head to Taolagnaro where you can hire a surfboard at Ankoba Beach or Monseigneur Bay for about 20,000Ar ($5.50) a day. Surf lessons cost about the same. For a very affordable taste of Malagasy history and culture, take a self-guided walking tour in Taolagnaro, Tulear, Mahajanga or Fianarantsoa. Simply buy a cheap map from the local tourism offices in each town.

Travel Tips

• Flights to Madagascar can be pricey, and internal transfers are also often quite steep. These can be as much as $400 or more for a return from Antananarivo so it’s important to plan your route with care. Even better, fly directly to your preferred stretch of coast and explore the surrounding area from there. Local taxi-brousse (buses) will get you practically anywhere on the island, but while a short journey can be fun and interesting, longer routes may quickly become an ordeal. Fares are low, and depend on distance. A trip from Antananarivo to Tulear takes about 20 hours, for example, and will cost you around 60,000Ar ($16.50) one way.

• Once arrived, you’ll find Madagascar an extremely affordable island destination, but it’s even better value if you’re travelling as couple or – first prize – in a group. Tours, activities, vehicle hire and guide fees are rarely available on a per person basis, which means you’ll pay the same whether you’re on your own or with company. This can also apply when booking rooms, which are sometimes charged at the same rate for single or double occupancy. That said, a simple double room will start at 18,000Ar ($5) a night, although expect to pay more in the harder-to-reach, exclusive areas. One option is to find the less expensive rooms a little further from the main beaches and hire a scooter for about 35,000Ar ($9.50) a day. This will not only allow you to reach the more exclusive, remote areas, but adds a degree of independence and the ability to explore a little inland.

If it’s luxury you’re looking for then Madagascar is your oyster, and where to find its pearls is entirely up to you. For chilled-out beach bliss, cocktails and massages, look no further than the upmarket lodges around Nosy Be, Mahajanga and Antsiranana. If it’s Madagascar’s unique fauna and flora that fascinates you, you’ll find almost all of the national parks have at least one exclusive resort nearby. There are private bungalows that look out onto sculpted ‘forests’ of tsingy and luxury tented camps with seemingly prehistoric mountain views. Then there’s French villas, board walked jungle gems and even a handful of modern designer hideaways secreted away in secluded bays. For opulence and privacy with a gourmet flair, there are some excellent hidden treasures around St. Augustine’s Bay and also along the beaches north of Mahajanga.

Miavana Resort

Highlights

Few places in the world are as varied and exotic as Madagascar. With it’s incredible wildlife, unique flora and stunning natural landscapes it’s a dream destination which offers a luxury experience like no other. Choose somewhere remote and intimate and you’ll likely have coral reefs, squeaky white-sand beaches, private pirogue cruises and enchanting forest trails all to yourself. Or why not charter a catamaran with a private chef and let yourself be whisked off for a beach picnic with not a soul around for miles. As a growing luxury destination, Madagascar is all about tailor-made itineraries. Your greatest indulgence here is the freedom to choose.

Travel Tips

You’ll need to book well in advance if you’re planning to travel during peak season (June to September). Although growing slowly, the number of exclusive hotels and lodges in Madagascar is still relatively small and they tend to book up fast. If you’re spending more than a week (recommended for such a large, varied island), request a few itinerary options from your hotel or tour operator. Many have fantastic ‘beach and bush’ options with partnership arrangements that mean fewer snags and, often, discounts. Several upmarket and boutique hotels offer fly-in packages, which are great for maximising your holiday time and eliminating the chance a frustrating transfer. Almost all large hotels and luxury lodges take credit cards (very few, if any, take American Express), but it’s a good idea to carry some local cash for tips and souvenirs.

As far as genuinely fascinating destinations go, you can’t beat Madagascar. Beyond the exported images of baobabs and beaches are ancient forests and wetlands filled with peculiar creatures, secret bays once bedevilled by pirates and crumbling citadels built by feuding kings and queens. And that’s just the start…

This is because on Madagascar – the oldest island on Earth – two very contradictory influences have converged to create something quite sublime. On the one hand is a natural history that has unfolded in almost total isolation. On the other is a melting pot of humanity that’s left virtually no one out. Indonesian, African, Arabic, European – all lay claim to an inextricable mishmash of culture that colours Madagascar’s anthropology. And it’s these two seemingly opposed forces – isolation and accessibility – that together have created an island that is truly, in every sense of the word, unique.

For visitors, it’s a recipe that couldn’t be more intoxicating. There are endless shores and ancient reefs, forested trails and lazy rivers. There are tropical islets filled with the smell of ylang-ylang blossoms, valleys that radiate with the scent of lavender and markets where vanilla wafts between pots steaming the air with the aroma of boiling rice. You can hike along vast and deep terracotta canyons that glow red at dusk, ride through primordial jungles on mid-century railroads or zoom through pastel-coloured coastal towns in yellow tuk-tuks. You can explore underground caves home to troglodyte crocodiles, climb massifs once fortified by Allied soldiers or brave suspension bridges that dangle between precipitous spires of limestone carved by the wind. You can also just take your towel down to the beach, order a bottomless cocktail and a barrel of seafood and do absolutely nothing.

You cannot, however, do them all. And therein lies the challenge for anyone planning a holiday in Madagascar. At more than half a million square kilometres it is the fourth-largest island in the world. It spans more than 15 degrees of latitude and straddles the southernmost tropic. Its climate, landscape and infrastructure are as varied as they are on some entire continents. Variations in culture, language and customs are not far behind. To travel from the east to west coast by 4×4 could take as much as three full days. From north to south you can easily triple that.

And so, what makes Madagascar most unique of all is how to plan a holiday here. Whether it’s the swashbuckling shores of the south, the languid beaches of the north, rainforests of the east or semi-arid wonderlands of the southwest, each region is poised to offer different types of traveller exactly what they are looking for, all the while remaining quintessentially Madagascan.

Experiencing all that Madagascar has to offer would take even the most expedient traveller at least a year. The distances are too great and the infrastructure simply too poor to zip from one end to the other, and there’s just no way to tick all the boxes on a two- or even three-week-long holiday. The most enjoyable way to experience this unique destination is to do it one region at a time. With its mix of world-class beaches, exotic cuisine, sublime wildlife and cultural interactions, not to mention superb hospitality and variety of hotels and lodges in all the right places, you won’t feel like you’re missing out by taking it slow. This is an island to experience one magnificent region at a time, with the added bonus that by revisiting you’ll be supporting the conservation organisations and local traders and businesspeople that depend significantly on tourism to keep this wonderful destination going.

Immersive wilderness experiences and an endless supply of adventure activities make Madagascar an amazing destination for enquiring minds. There’s snorkelling and kayaking and horse riding and climbing, and the absence of big game means your kids can get close to weird and wonderful creatures and return home with photos of animals that their friends won’t believe exist. Despite all this, you should consider a family holiday to Madagascar carefully. Poor infrastructure can mean long transit times so it’s best to keep focussed on a specific town or region.

Unless you’re feeling very brave, it’s highly recommended that you centre your family holiday around a child-friendly lodge or hotel. These offer activities for children, private, comfortable transfers, and have experience in providing safe and entertaining itineraries for kids. Suitable hotels are increasingly common across the country, but there are good options around Isalo National Park, which offer short walks directly from the premises, horse riding, mountain biking and on-site play areas. Hotels in Tulear, Nosy Be and Nosy Boraha also have child-friendly activities and staff who are trained to deal with young ones.

Highlights

Horse riding in Isalo National Park is a magical experience that allows the whole family to explore the canyons and arid flora and fauna without having to walk large distances. A guided walk at the top of Mount Amber National Park is also perfect for kids and in the dry season (April to November) it’s possible to drive all the way up to the main picnic site which eliminates the long trek usually needed to get there. At the top, there are short walking circuits, many on easy boardwalk trails that wind their way past Madagascar’s ancient mega flora. Snorkelling in the warm waters around Nosy Be is also safe thanks to a large offshore reef, which keeps the shallows relatively calm and clear. A visit to the pirate cemetery on Nosy Boraha (where one of the gravestones has a skull and crossbones on the headstone) is certain to fire up the imagination of young minds interested in myth and adventure.

Travel Tips

• While Malagasy culture is very child friendly, you won’t find many concessions to travelling families outside the dedicated family hotels and lodges. Many tour operators, for example, don’t accommodate children under eight years old and few restaurants anywhere have high-chairs available.
• You’ll certainly need to stock up on child-specific supplies (high SPF sunscreen, medication, formula, insect repellent, travel sickness tablets etc.) before you leave, as you won’t find any of these easily once there.
• While travelling on public transport with young kids can be stressful, it’s worth noting that children five years old and under generally go for free on local busses.

A beach holiday in Madagascar has all the qualities of a classic romance – long walks along white-sand beaches, tropical sunsets and warm evenings under a blanket of stars. That said, there is such an intoxicating mix of exotic flavours, sights and smells that it doesn’t really matter where you are in the country, there’s always the feeling that you might be swept up in a romance at any time. Madagascar has come a long way in the past few years and there’s increasing choice for romantic visitors. From luxury lodges with honeymoon specials, to fly-in safaris and private-hire catamarans, Madagascar leaves it up to you to set the scene for your next romantic escape.

For complete, luxurious, romantic isolation head to Madagascar’s west coast, just north of Mahajanga. Here you’ll find a selection of stunning fly-in resorts where you’ll feel like you have the beautiful beaches all to yourselves. The boutique hotels and upmarket lodges of Nosy Be and Nosy Boraha are also fantastic romantic islands for couples, with palm-tree-lined beaches and clear, turquoise waters. On mainland Madagascar, Antsiranana in the north and Tulear in the south both offer couples the option of mixing luxury oceanside accommodation with the spectacular natural highlights of Amber Mountain National Park and Reniala Forest Reserve. For a truly wild break, Berenty Special Reserve and Ranomafana National Park set an unforgettable scene for romance amongst some of Madagascar’s most breathtaking forest scenery.

Highlights

Whether it’s a honeymoon, anniversary, or a just an impromptu getaway, a romantic holiday in Madagascar ticks all the boxes. You can take a private boat trip to the Radama and Mitsio island archipelagos near Nosy Be, or watch whales lobtail and breach from the shore on Nosy Boraha. You could learn to surf together in Taolagnaro or search for lemurs on a jungle trek. Of course, and probably most importantly, you can also find a secluded bay in Ifaty, Tulear, or Morondava, and simply while away a sparkling afternoon in each other’s company.

Travel Tips

• Some hotels and lodges – especially the smaller more bespoke establishments – are exclusively childfree. It’s worth seeking these out for an uninterrupted romantic getaway.
• Be aware that many of the upmarket and exclusive hotels and lodges (especially on Nosy Be and Nosy Boraha) list their prices for accommodation as ‘per person’, whereas the rest of Madagascar it’s generally quoted as ‘per room’.
• Madagascar is one of the relatively few African countries where homosexuality is not a crime, although public displays of affection, regardless of sexual orientation, are unusual in Malagasy culture and are best avoided.

Travelling alone can be daunting regardless of where in the world you go. On a remote island with a beleaguered infrastructure, it can seem all the more formidable. The good news is that Madagascar is absolutely fantastic for solo travellers. But that’s only provided you take one essential item: the right (casual) attitude. With a laid-back approach and, especially, a relaxed notion of time, solo travellers will find Madagascar safe, fun and rich with cultural and natural experiences, whether travelling on foot, by bicycle, or using rented or public transport.

The best region for solo travel in Madagascar depends on two factors: your interests and the time of year. Many solo travellers gravitate to the surfing and kitesurfing hotspots of Antsiranana and Taolagnaro, with optimal conditions between April and September. The bars and cafes of Nosy Be, Nosy Boraha, Taomasina and Tulear also attract a small community of independent travellers and are at their busiest between June and November. On the other hand, if you’re travelling solo to escape the crowds then you’ll have no problem finding a quieter spot. Even the busiest resorts are relatively quiet by world standards, but try April, May or November for the best combination of good weather and fewest people.

Highlights

For the truly independent, self-guided city tours in Taomasina, Antsiranana, Taolagnaro and Mahajanga allow solo travellers to wander the streets and take in the history and culture of these key port towns in their own time; maps are available the towns’ tourist offices. Joining a group is also a great way for solo travellers to meet new people and split costs. Try one of the adventure activities around Taomasina, such as scuba diving, ATV excursions or boat trips down the Pangalanes Canal. For solo travellers on less tight budgets, most of the country’s luxury lodges provide all-inclusive, often highly customisable packages, with a wide range of activities to suit your taste.

Travel Tips

• In general, there isn’t much of a backpacker vibe in Madagascar, so if you’re planning to wing it you should be prepared to get to know the locals or spend much of your time on your own.
• One major disadvantage is the cost of tours and guided trips into the national parks and reserves. Most operators, and certainly all national parks, charge a flat rate for guides (who are compulsory). Unless you find a group to split the costs, you’ll need to pay the full guide rate even if you’re on your own. The same applies to hiring a vehicle with driver, which is the only way to access large areas of Madagascar.
• Women travelling alone will likely encounter men making uninvited approaches. In general Madagasy men are respectful and a firm ‘no’ is usually enough.

To really appreciate the diversity of Madagascar’s flora and fauna you first need to understand its unique geological history. Separated from Africa almost 100 million years ago, the base of all its plants and animals is original marooned stock from the Gondwana supercontinent. While those on the African and South American continents continued to evolve in constantly changing environments, Madagascar’s ancient species were left to develop in relative isolation, miles from anywhere, for millions of years. Sporadic landings from floating and flying seeds (sometimes on air currents and sometimes in the stomach of seabirds) and brief land bridge across the Mozambique Channel, only further contributed to Madagascar becoming its weirdest, and most wonderful self.

Some of its more bizarre creations – 400-kilogram elephant birds, giant sloths the size of silverback gorillas and dwarf hippos a quarter the size of their continental brethren – have been driven to extinction by human colonisation. However, it’s still home to more than 200,000 species of fauna and flora, including 11,000 endemic plant species, 420 different kinds of endemic reptiles, five complete bird families and a variety of mammal species found nowhere else on earth. Per square kilometres this makes Madagascar one of the most biodiverse places on the plane, and one of the world’s officially recognised biodiversity hotspots.

Fossa

For travellers trying to decide how to immerse themselves in this natural wonderland, it’s best to understand Madagascar as an island of two parts. The eastern flank is mostly made up of dense rainforest, separated from the rest of the island by a long, arched spine of mountains that runs down the length of the country, a few kilometres east of centre. West of the escarpment is drier, made up initially of stark gnarled highlands and then deciduous trees and savannah grasslands as the mountains descend into rolling hills and valleys. Nearer the western shores, the landscape is a mix of marshlands and delta and mangrove swamps, with some arid regions stretching all the way to the coast. The south is mostly arid, with spiny forests, succulents and hardy woods dominating much of the landscape before reaching the shores. The north has its own microclimate. It’s closer to the equator and hemmed in by a half moon of towering massifs making it tropical and humid, but also susceptible to cyclones.

In the moist rainforests, you’ll find ancient cycads, giant ferns, orchids and long-stemmed lianas stretching across the damp undergrowth. Red-bellied-, and rare cyanide-eating golden-bamboo lemurs hang out in the dense canopies. Still more peculiar creations, such as giraffe-necked weevils, giant millipedes, satanic leaf-tailed geckos and a very special species of chameleon no larger than your thumbnail, all hide in the undergrowth.

Though you’ll find far fewer species in the western deciduous forests, wetlands and arid regions, they are no less strange. These dynamic regions are home to species such as radiated tortoises, hog-nosed snakes, net-throwing spiders, fossas, dancing sifakas, vasa parrots, skinks, plate lizards, cave-dwelling crocodiles and large boas.

Found throughout the island are baobabs, including many endemics. Of the nine species of baobab found in the world, six grow exclusively in Madagascar.

Seabirds are also common around the island although, in comparison to its litany of insects, reptiles and small mammals, Madagascar’s population of birds is surprisingly small.

In terms of marine life, Madagascar shares much of its variety with the western shores of Africa. Perennial visitors include hawksbill and green turtles, and humpback whales frequent its eastern bays on their mid-year migration from Antarctica. Madagascar is also notorious for sharks. Its east coast is a well-documented hotspot and as such many bathers prefer the west where the shallow reefs not only offer more protection, but also give snorkelers and divers a larger variety of tropical sightings (more so even than the Red Sea) that includes a wild menagerie of curiosities, such as squirrelfish, batfish, boxfish, flutefish, lionfish, butterflyfish and damselfish.