A Return to the Delta: A Story of People, Passion, and Friendship

I’d been to Botswana before, but after years of rescheduling during the pandemic, returning in 2022 felt like returning home again, and since then, each return has strengthened my connection to Botswana. My rule for this kind of travel is simple: no discussion of politics; I go for the beauty, the love, and the peace I find there. It’s a true retreat, a place where I feel appreciated and safe.

The journey started easily enough, a straight run from Charlottesville, Virginia, through Atlanta to Cape Town. The initial stop in Cape Town was about more than just recovering from the flight; it was about connecting with my dear friend and safari expert, Matthys. We’ve become close over the years, and even though the itinerary was packed, he insisted, “Next time you need to be here for four nights so we can spend more time together.” That’s the kind of personal connection that anchors the start of every trip.

This time, the adventure was particularly special because I was bringing my friend Sylvia. She runs a sheep farm and rarely gets away, so I wanted this to be an experience she’d never forget. I’d been talking up these places for years, and now she would see them with her own eyes. The anticipation built around that shared joy, knowing she was about to witness the world I’d fallen in love with.

Welcome Home, JJ

We soon left the Atlantic coast for the bush, flying into Maun, in northern Botswana, then further upwards to our first camp: Savute Safari Lodge in the Chobe area.

The moment we pulled into a camp, we were greeted with a warm, genuine chorus of, “Welcome home, JJ!” It’s an incredible feeling. The Desert & Delta camps – Moremi, Savute, Xakanaxa, and Xugana – are all small, private, and feel like coming back to a close-knit community. I’ve done the big cities, New York, London, and Paris; they’re fine, but I crave the peaceful privacy and the personal touch of these places.

The true magic, though, is with the people. All of the staff members at the camps are native people from the local tribes such as the Bayei, Batawana, and Bushmen. They are proud of their country and their heritage and love sharing their stories. Truly, when staying at these camps, you are not a tourist; you are a welcome guest in their home. For me, these dear people have become my extended family.

This following event occurred on my trip in September of 2024 with Becky Barlow. I had been particularly worried about Tau, a guide I’d met during my previous trips to Savute. He has always been my dearest friend there – we share so much laughter – and I knew he was at a different camp for this trip. “What am I going to do?” I wondered.

As we departed Xugana, our guide led us to the little thatched-roof shelter, and he said, “There’s somebody waiting for you.” And there he was. Tau!

We embraced, practically in tears, we were so happy to see each other. I thanked the camp for letting him borrow a boat to come say hi, and then he picked up a duffel bag and said, “That’s not all. I’m going to be your guide for your four days at Savute.”

It was unbelievable. Between Matthys and camp management, they had arranged to move him specifically for our stay because they knew how much I like him. That’s the level of care and connection they offer.

The Rhythm of the Delta & The People’s Stories

The heart of the trip followed the rhythm of the game drives and boat safaris at Savute, Xakanaxa, and Xugana Island Lodge.

During my April 2024 visit, I had a specific focus: getting to know the people. I started asking the guides and managers about their tribe, their background, and how they got into this work. I’d been hesitant before, thinking I might be prying, but they most generously shared their history and their stories.

Tau, who is from the Bushmen tribe, which has been in the Kalahari for thousands of years, finally sat down with me. We spent over an hour together. He gave me the history of his people, shared stories of his wife and three kids, and explained how much he loved his job.

A Spectacle Saved for Us

One evening at Xugana, TK had something special planned. It was the sundowner game drive, and we had the boat to ourselves, just Sylvia, myself, and Promise from the camp. TK took us quite a distance to a place that had to be visited in the evening, with the sun behind us.

It was an area lined with trees, and as the sun began to drop, hundreds and hundreds of birds were coming in to roost. Darters, egrets, herons, pelicans. It was just the most incredible sight.

TK had been saving this experience for us. He knew the sun had to be behind us so we could get good pictures, avoiding the silhouettes. That one moment, crafted just for us, gave me goosebumps. It was a perfect, personal moment that illustrated the kind of connection these guides seek to build.

Legendary Encounters and Continuing Stories

The wildlife encounters are always incredible, but for me, it’s the animals you see again, the ones with a story, that stand out. They make the journey feel like an ongoing narrative, like an episode of a show you need to return to.

I always ask about the incredibly huge bull elephant at Savute. He’s twice the size of the females, and he has no tusks – they never developed. Tau said that’s probably why he’s never been killed by poachers. I call him the legend, and I keep track of him.

On a previous trip, the camp manager, Gorata, came running to me, “JJ, come here!” and took me to the deck of my safari tent. He was right there below my deck. He came back the next day. It’s an unbelievable feeling, like he’s coming to say hello.

Then there is Oscar at Moremi, a bull hippo without a pod, who just roams around. He’s often seen grazing right in the middle of the camp courtyard. This time, we were at Camp Xakanaxa, having drinks before dinner, and there he was, grazing in the courtyard. The next morning, I walked out onto the deck, and he was right below it – I could have reached over and petted him!

When Sylvia and I arrived in September, I asked Gee, “Have you seen the cubs yet?” Nope, the cubs hadn’t been seen yet. The very next day, on a game drive, we got the radio call: the cubs were out! It was their first day out of the den.

We found the mother and her two cubs. The next day, we found her again, but there was only one cub. We don’t know if it had been taken by wild dogs or a leopard, or if she’d left one with the pride. Seeing the mother and cub was bittersweet – I was happy to see the cub, but sad about not knowing what happened to the sibling. But these are the stories that bring you back.

Disconnection and Discovery

I was captivated by the series, The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency, as it taught me so much about the culture of the people who live in Botswana. And the book, How To Raise An Elephant, really caught my attention. It mentioned a rescue facility in Maun for baby elephants called Elephant Havens. To my delight, I had come to learn that the elephant sanctuary was real! Elephant Havens takes in sick, injured, and orphaned baby elephants to care for them and prepare them for a safe return to the wild.

Sylvia really got it. She understood that we weren’t in Botswana just for the wildlife but also for the people. She got right in on the fun with Tau and me – bumping along in the truck and laughing. I had told her about a “ceremonial song and dance” Tau and I do by a dead tree in honour of a marabou stork we tracked over the years. This time, she joined in the hilarity.

An Unforgettable Chapter in Life

My initial reason for going to Botswana years ago was simple. I heard the Okavango Delta was at risk of being destroyed from a potential dam to be built in Angola, and I decided I had to visit it before it was too late. Thankfully, the Delta is safe. But that first impulse led me to a country I’ve come to see as a model of peace, conservation, and cultural respect for the whole world.

This trip, like all my returns, has been a chapter I can best sum up as finding a place with such a beautiful history. It’s a country founded by the cleverness of Botswana’s first president, Sir Seretse Khama – there was no war, just an intelligent path to liberty. It’s a country that loves its people and protects its animals.

I’m proud to go back there. I always look forward to my next Botswana safari and then, when I return home, to share it with everybody. These trips are no longer just vacations; they are a retreat, a reconnection, and an ongoing story of friendship – with the land, the guides, and the legendary animals who keep me coming back for the next chapter.

This profound connection – to the land, the people, and the story of Botswana – is the true gift of the Delta. If you long for an immersive experience in the wilderness, Discover Africa can craft the perfect retreat for you.

Travel with confidence, knowing that every detail, from the moment you land to the moment you say goodbye to your newfound family, is taken care of. All you have to do is feel the unique rejuvenation that Africa provides. Let our safari experts craft your own personalised African chapter, a story you will return to again and again.