“Botswana completely changed my perspective of what a safari could be. I was in such a remote place and I was experiencing a sensory overload all the time. My Botswana safari was a true immersion in nature.” Discover Africa safari planner Devryn Panaino travelled across pristine wilderness on a Botswana Okavango safari and came back with a lot of stories to tell…
“When I speak to clients, it’s hard to explain how a safari has the potential to change the way you live your life. When you see an animal you’ve never seen before in their world – in their natural habitat – you simply forget about everything else. Suddenly, for a brief moment in time, your senses are in hyperdrive and you’re purely in the present. It’s such a surreal experience.”
Devryn travelled across the Okavango Delta and to the border of Chobe National Park before ending his safari in Zambia for a few days of relaxation along the Zambezi River. From leopard sightings in the south of the delta and community expeditions in Kwai to a proper wild experience in Linyanti before the luxury of Thorntree River Lodge in Zambia, this trip was certainly one to remember.
A Stay at Atzaró Okavango

Located in the southeast of the Okavango Delta in the NG32 Concession is one of African Bush Camp’s five-star properties: Atzaró Camp. “From the moment you step out of the helicopter (you can only get to Atzaró via helicopter), you feel like a VIP. This camp’s hospitality is unparalleled – everyone knew my name when I arrived. It’s a place where you can break bread with and get to know everyone,” says Devryn.
Air conditioning – uncommon in the delta – cools the rooms down in this camp, of which there are eight luxury suites and one family suite, each complete with a plunge pool. With opulent fine touches like both indoor and outdoor baths and showers, yoga mats, and a stocked mini bar, your suite will be your oasis in the wild. You’re never not appreciating your surroundings and game viewing thanks to the expansive views over the wetlands.
Devryn explains that when it comes to a Botswana safari versus a South African safari, Botswana has 10 times the amount of space compared to its neighbour. “Tourism density in Botswana is lower and finding wildlife is a lot more of an immersive experience. The low-impact tourism model that’s been adopted and the limited number of lodges on the concessions make it feel like your group might be the only travellers on a game drive.”

When out on game drives, you listen to the birds and impalas for any alarm calls that tell predators are close. Along with your guide, you follow the tracks, smells, and sounds to sightings – and sightings are spectacular.
“During our first game drive, we came across a male and female leopard couple hunting buffalo. We also saw another female leopard with a meal who got chased off by two male lions, who then had a bit of a rumble over the spoils.”
Devryn, an avid birdwatcher, got to add 40 species of birds to his list; experience the rare sighting of a serval, a smaller member of the wild cat family; and witness a wild dog pack traversing the wilderness.
Community Encounters in Kwai

In the Kwai Concession, neighbouring Moremi Game Reserve, the local community is entrenched in the safari experience. From the staff in the lodges to your guides and the people steering the mokoro during water safaris, locals – who know the land intimately – enhance the adventure and help guests gain a better understanding of the history of the land.
During his trip, Devryn went to see the preschool that African Bush Camps (ABC) supports. “ABC believes in tourism for change, and so everything they do has the foundation of uplifting communities. And this is partly what makes a safari here so incredible – you know you’re contributing to something so much bigger.”
Khwai Lediba, where Devryn stayed during this leg of his trip, mixes an authentic tented African safari experience with luxury finishes. Your own private deck allows you to appreciate the views and wildlife even when you’re not in a mokoro or safari vehicle, plush bedding ensures you’ll have the best sleep ever after your adventures, and the outdoor shower secures never ending immersion in nature.
A stay in Kwai can include morning, afternoon, and nighttime game drives; bush walks; and mokoro safaris. Besides the varying ecosystems – including wetlands, grasslands, and forests – that will delight during your excursions, there is a variety of wildlife to spot. From herds of elephants dipping their trunks into the rivers to drink and towers of giraffes walking the plains to prides of lions on the prowl and elusive red lechwes making their way across swamps, the diversity of life will inspire.
Into the Wild in the Linyanti Concession

“Here’s the thing about Botswana: if you had to go back 100 years, the environment would pretty much look the same – minus the plunge pools,” tells Devryn. There’s nowhere better to have a proper wild experience in the bush than in the Linyanti Concession, on the border of Chobe National Park. “Here, you become a part of the bush – the safari vehicle is just another animal in the wilderness. A Linyanti safari is an incredibly natural experience.”
Linyanti Bush Camp and Linyanti Ebony are two properties within this wild haven. The ability to enjoy the raw beauty of nature was paramount in the construction of these camps – think gauze sliding doors, canvas tents, and sweeping vistas.
Devryn recommends visiting Linyanti in the dry winter season, which runs from May to October. During summer, the rains create thick vegetation which makes game drives and wildlife viewing challenging. The dry weather thins out the mopane trees – this is when you can relax on the deck of your room and watch wildlife the whole day. And the wildlife viewing opportunities are spectacular. Four of the Big Five call the Linyanti home, with good sightings of elephants, lions, leopards, and buffaloes. Wild dogs are also regularly seen here, a real treat for safari-goers, as these canines are endangered.
When it comes to the ultimate Botswana safari where you can visit multiple destinations, Devryn recommends heading to Chobe before diving into Linyanti. Afterwards, a trip to Kwai for game drives and mokoro trips and then going further into the Okavango with a permanent water camp. This will help you gain a deeper appreciation for the wonder that is Botswana. After your wilderness adventure, a few days without early morning wake-up calls to just purely relax before you head home is best done in Zambia, a short flight from Botswana.
Bali-Inspired Relaxation Along the Zambezi

“The Zambezi River is so special. Walking into Thorntree River Lodge and into the main lounge area with outdoor deck, you’re overwhelmed by the power of the water in front of you.”
Thorntree, located in Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park where the famous Victoria Falls thunders and smokes, can be compared to a Bali resort in the middle of the wilderness. This is a place to purely focus on relaxation. “It’s a retreat. A 100% luxurious experience. The suites have private plunge pools and views of the river, there’s a spa and a fully equipped gym, and meals are fine dining with wine pairing.
“I loved the motorboat safari. There are armchairs and couches on the boat, so I was able to sit back, drink in hand, and look for birds. And the sunset over the river is wonderful.” There are over 350 bird species here, so it’s a fantastic destination for avid birdwatchers. Livingstone’s flycatcher, slaty egret, white-fronted bee-eater, and African skimmer can all be found.
“Thorntree is also a great place to start your safari, especially if you travelled a long way. Spend a few days acclimatising and overcoming jetlag before moving to your next destination.”
Devryn’s Tips for Going on Safari

- Pack around half of what you think you need. “Luggage allowances are strict, especially on small aircraft, so don’t overpack! There are laundry services at lodges.”
- Be prepared to disconnect when heading to remote locations. “In Botswana, most places don’t rely on WiFi. While there may be connectivity in the main areas to update loved ones at home, you won’t be able to scroll on TikTok for hours before bed.”
- Come with no expectations. “A lot of people try to plan their trips down to the T. When on safari, it’s about reading the story as it’s being written. Don’t try and script it – let it happen and live in the moment.”
If you’re ready for a change in perspective – an experience that will forever shift the way you see the world – get in contact with one of our safari planners. After travelling across the top safari destinations on the continent, they are able to craft your perfect trip – one that will exceed expectations, with experiences that will be permanently imprinted on your heart.
Author: Paula Rabeling
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